MANDURIA, Apulia — We spoke to Albiera Antinori, representing the 26th generation of a winemaking dynasty dating to 1385, at the Forum della Cucina Italiana in Manduria, Apulia. She told us the secret to Antinori’s longevity is passing on values rather than technology. Tignanello was radical, she explained, because it broke with the quantity-over-quality orthodoxy of late-1960s Chianti Classico. She sees wine as inseparable from Italian food culture, not an add-on, she said, citing a study showing 80 percent of Italian wine consumption happens at mealtimes. A 27th generation is already on board, she added, bringing fresh ideas around wine tourism and the art of explaining to a new global audience the world of craft, origin, and story that lies behind every bottle.
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