GALATONE, Apulia — We spoke to Carlo Cascione at Tenuta DonnAnna, a working country estate in the heart of Salento, Apulia, where his family has farmed for generations. He told us his earliest memory of the place is the smell of rosemary at the family’s annual October religious celebration. His mother’s cooking experiences were born from a chance remark overheard mid-conversation, he said, and now draw visitors from around the world. The estate grows Senatore Cappelli wheat, an ancient variety popular in the 1930s and now being revived for its flavour and digestibility, mills it on site, and turns it into pasta made entirely by hand. Carlo also built a cycle tourism operation from scratch, inspired by student days exploring Salento by bike. The new Ciclonica route, he said, is opening up a new season of slow tourism and spreading visitors and income into the inland villages that mass tourism never reaches.