LIPARI, Sicily — Some 350 metres above the Mediterranean, looking out at Salina, Alicudi and Filicudi, Massimo Lentsch is rebuilding an archipelago’s lost wine tradition one vine at a time. He sailed into Lipari in the early 2000s, fell for a volcanic plateau called Piana del Castellaro, and chose to make wine where viticulture had all but vanished. Today his Tenuta di Castellaro pairs that revival with the slow tourism reshaping the Aeolian Islands – vineyard picnics, a bistro and stays among the vines.
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