NAPLES — At the stroke of midnight on January 17 each year, a fire is lit outside the headquarters of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN, the body that certifies authentic Neapolitan pizza) in Naples’ Capodimonte district. It is not a marketing stunt. It is an act of devotion, and it signals that the city which invented pizza is, once again, claiming it back.
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