On the eastern edge of Salina, Antonino Caravaglio farms vines across four Aeolian islands, Salina, Lipari, Vulcano and Stromboli. He took over the family holding 35 years ago, when the cellar produced mostly red wine and capers. His Malvasia di Lipari, both passito and dry, now runs to 40,000 bottles a year and travels well beyond Italy. His most singular vineyard sits inside a crater. The Fossa del Monte on Lipari is a 350-metre depression flanked by Monte Guardia and Monte Gallina, where iron and sulphur turn the rock red and yellow, and where temperatures have dropped to zero in April. Italy Now spoke with him at the cellar.